It is cutting back and reshaping certain plants to encourage strong healthy growth and plenty of fruit and flowers. It can also help prevent the spread of disease.
How to prune in winter
It’s important to prune your plants at the right time of the year. Many plants that are dormant in winter will benefit from pruning now, particularly fruit trees and bushes, roses and some shrubs.
What is winter pruning?
When to winter prune
Winter pruning should be carried out when the tree or shrub is dormant, so usually between November and the end of February. For grapevines, birches and figs, it is important that they are deeply dormant, so should be left until midwinter, to avoid the cut stems “bleeding”.
What to winter prune
Not all plants can be pruned in winter. Some should be left until later in the year. Winter is the best time to reshape apple and pear trees, as well as pruning bushes such as blackcurrants, gooseberries, redcurrants and raspberries.
Grapevines, Wisteria and large deciduous shrubs that have outgrown their space will benefit from a winter prune as will shrub and climbing roses.
What not to winter prune
Don’t prune cherries, plums and any spring or early summer flowering shrubs such as lilacs, Magnolias and Rhododendrons. Winter may be a bit early to prune Hydrangeas and Buddleias, unless you have a very mild February. These should be trimmed back in spring when new growth starts to appear.
Winter pruning encourages growth, so is ideal for young fruit trees, but established trees are best pruned in summer to encourage more flower and fruit production but slow the growth.
Our tips for success
- Make sure you have the right pruning tools and that they are clean and sharp.
- When pruning fruit trees and bushes the aim is to achieve a framework which will produce more fruit.
- Try to create a goblet framework on apple and pear trees to let air and light in (see below for more information).
- Start with cutting back any dead and diseased stems first and any stems that are crossing over and rubbing. Aim to leave healthy stems and branches but reduce their height if getting too big.
- When pruning Wisteria, trim all side shoots back to 3 or 4 buds.
- When pruning apples look to trim any young growth away from fruiting spurs.
- In general, always cut just above an outward facing bud at an angle so the cut is facing downwards.
Apples and pears
A goblet, or wine glass shape is best for fruit trees such as apples and pears, to allow maximum sunshine on the growing fruit. Ideally you would start this when the tree is young, and can be encouraged to grow into the desired shape, but it is still possible with older trees.
The first step is to remove any dead, weak, diseased or damaged branches. Look for strong lateral branches that you will keep as your main fruit-bearing branches. Any smaller shoots growing close together or towards the centre of the tree should be removed to avoid crowding. Remove spurs underneath branches and in congested parts of the tree as these will not receive enough daylight for fruit to grow there. After pruning the tree should have an open centre with four or five main branches for bearing fruit.
Roses
Late winter (February and March) is the best time for pruning both shrub and climbing roses. You’ll want heavy-duty gloves to tackle this job and bypass pruners which can be used on rose stems up to 10cm in diameter.
Cuts should be less than 5mm above a bud and should slope away from it. This will stop water collecting on the bud. Aim for well-spaced stems that allow free air flow for optimum results.
Climbers
Wisteria and ornamental vines can be cut back in winter – cut back new growth to just two or three buds from the main branches. Don’t prune early-flowering clematis though, as you won’t get any flowers in the spring.
Fruit bushes
Many fruit bushes can handle quite harsh pruning. Autumn-fruiting raspberries can be cut right down to near ground level in February and will fruit on the new shoots in summer. Blackcurrants fruit best on two year old stems, so cut back some older stems to allow new ones to grow in their place. Remove old unproductive wood on gooseberries, and prune the new growth down to four buds from the base.
Tools of the trade
It is essential to have clean, sharp tools for pruning, because blunt tools can cause bruising and damage to your plants. A good pair of bypass secateurs will be great for cutting smaller, softer stems up to the thickness of a pencil. A pruning saw or long handled lopper are great additions to your gardening kit to handle larger branches.
Check for other problems
When pruning your trees and shrubs, be sure to check them for pests and diseases. Winter is a good time to spot harmful fungus and other growths which may cause problems.
