(Thlaspi arvense) Field pennycress is a common annual weed that appears throughout the garden. It spreads readily, each plant producing numerous seeds, and quickly becomes a nuisance.
Field pennycress is a very common annual weed, appearing in both cultivated and uncultivated bare soil throughout the garden.
Plants grow quickly, and each one produces hundreds of seeds. Plants grow quickly, covering beds and borders and grow through cultivated plants.
These seeds can also remain dormant in the ground for several years. And as “One year’s seeding means seven years weeding”, allowing plants to flower and produce seeds, means several years of trying to control and remove it.
Field pennycress usually grows to 60cm (2ft) high, producing mid green, usually oblong, leaves that are coarsely toothed or lobed. The clusters of small white flowers are produced at the top of the stems from May to July. These then develop into characteristic round or oval, flat, winged seedpods, hence the common name penny-cress.
As with most weeds, never allow field pennycress to become established, and certainly don’t allow it to flower and produce seeds. This will make it more difficult, and more time consuming, to fully control. Early identification and eradication is important to stop it taking over the garden.
Regularly hoeing seedlings and young plants as soon as you see them is the quickest and easiest method of control. The aim of hoeing is to sever the weed stems at or just below ground level, cutting the top growth from its roots. A sharp hoe blade will make this even quicker and easier, so always sharpen the hoe blade before using it. Hoeing on a warm and/or windy day will mean plants quickly dehydrate and die.
Digging out the plants when they are more established is more time consuming and more difficult – especially where they’re growing among wanted plants.
Flame guns and weeders that use an electric current are also effective in some locations.
Covering bare soil with weed-control membrane (landscape fabric) or even thick black polythene will exclude light and prevent seeds germinating. As will mulching the soil with organic matter, such as a bark mulch. For mulches to work properly, they need to be a minimum of 5cm (2in) thick, but 7.5cm (3in) deep works better.
There are a number of weed control options available to treat field pennycress. In addition to traditional weedkillers there are now also a range of more natural alternatives.
Any weedkiller can be used to control and kill field pennycress in beds, borders, waste ground and on paths. Those marketed as “fast acting” are contact weedkillers – killing or damaging the plant tissue they are sprayed onto or make contact with. These tend to be based on “naturally-occurring” active ingredients, such as acetic acid and natural fatty acids. Systemic weedkillers also kill the roots can also be used. To ensure weedkillers work more effectively:
Weedkillers (except lawn weedkillers) are total weedkillers – that is they will damage or kill any plants whose leaves they are sprayed onto. Make sure you keep the spray off wanted plants – including lawns – and, if necessary protect plants by covering with polythene or similar when spraying. Use weedkillers safely. Always read the label and product information before use.
Never allow plants to flower and set seed. Although this should be pretty easy in your garden, it’s more difficult to stop seeds blowing in from a neighbour’s garden, any surrounding fields and waste ground and even further afield.
